Lace: Invisible Darts

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Okay, I have a confession. When I was having a staring contest with my lace at the beginning of the month, I blinked first. By blinked, I mean clicked. And, by clicked, I mean I broke down and bought the coveted Bridal Couture by Susan Khalje. It had been on my wish list forever, and I figured it was time I got serious, especially if I was going to be working with lace.

And, wow, am I glad I did. It is overflowing with information that is definitely in line with learning to sew well. And, most importantly, my question about darts in lace was quickly answered:

Making Invisible Darts on Lace

Darts are easily shaped by overlapping lace. Though the original dart lines may not match perfectly, the shaping will be duplicated. When making the choice as to which side of the dart will be topmost, observe the design. The most visually pleasing motif should be topmost (although sometimes there are two pleasing arrangements, and sometimes neither is pleasing). Remember, too, that a patch can be used if the natural configurations in the lace aren’t satisfactory. After overlapping the layers to confirm the dart’s shape, stitch the edge of the top layer, and trim excess underneath lace, as necessary.

I’ve seen many other methods, including (1) altering a pattern to eliminate darts all together and (2) basting the lace to the underlying fabric and sewing the dart as normal. But, I was worried I might mess up the former and end up with the lace bagging off my wool underlay, and my lace and wool together were too thick for the latter. Overlapping easily won out. And, I will admit that I was really pleased with the result. There really is a dart in the photo above coming down from the pinky of my left hand. I think it qualifies as a successful “invisible dart”! And, there’s two more equally invisible darts in the back!! Three successful darts gave me the confidence I needed to crank through the rest of the skirt this past weekend, so you’ll be seeing the finished garment sooner rather than later (hint: check MSN and BurdaStyle on Monday!). For now all you get is the sneak peek above and the one I posted earlier in the week here.

While I was waiting for the book to arrive in the mail, I found a bit more inspiration in a couple other sewing books. Next week I’ll talk about what I learned about lace seaming and, finally, the week after that lace hems.

14 thoughts on “Lace: Invisible Darts

  1. Wow, that is a great idea! I haven’t worked with lace yet, but I have some pretty grey lace yardage that I want to work with soon. Knowing that this is an option for making darts in lace should help me decide on a pattern.

  2. Oh man, I’ve always wanted to know how they do this! Thank you for sharing and I hope when you post the final product you give us some more up close shots 🙂 I can’t wait to see it all together!

  3. So even though you’ve described and literally pointed to the dart, I still cannot see it! Magic! Also, I looooove the color combo you have going on — and the scallops showing themselves off over the blue look gorgeous.

  4. Interesting post and the result looks great. I wonder if you also could have sewn the lace with the underlining and afterwards cut it away from the dart.

    1. I imagine that would have helped with the bulk, but I think the dart would have been more obvious. I quite like the fact that it blends in.

  5. thanks for tip ;-)))), I found Bridal Couture on Waterstones market place for £45 used. ;-)) (20 pounds less than same shop on amazon). Wish me luck it will be my first lace gown.

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