Community · Sewing

Men’s Shirt Sew-Along: Crooked Seams and Twisting Sleeves

This February (and now March!) I’m sewing along with Male Pattern Boldness and a bunch of other talented seamsters. We’re all making men’s shirts. Mine is for my husband, and here’s a reflection on my efforts to sew well.

What's wrong with this picture?

Last night I stayed up late sewing my little heart out in an effort to finish as much of my husband’s shirt for the Sew-Along before my self-imposed deadline of the end of the month hit.  As I finished stitching the sleeves and sides closed, I excitedly handed the shirt to my husband to try on.  I figured I was golden.  I was already writing a post on yoke burritos and collar fixes in my head.

And then I noticed the sleeves.  Screeeeech!

They were twisting down the seams.

I quickly snapped photos and posted them to the MPB Sew-Along Flickr group to ask for advice.  But, as I was going to sleep, I remembered Susanne’s lesson about seams and grain line when we were working on my wedding dress.  She  explained that the fabric for my dress must be cut along the grain line for a straight seam.  If cut off the grain line, then the seam would twist, like you see in some jeans.

Maybe I cut the sleeves at a slight angle from the grain line?  Maybe the square-shoulder adjustment forces the sleeves to hang funny?  Maybe I just misaligned them when I was sewing them on?

I’m currently getting to know my seam ripper as I take off the sleeves in the hopes that I’ll have better luck if I try again.

Until then, I’ll leave you with more of last night’s fitting photos.

The front. Notice that the square-shoulder adjustment removed the pulls from around the shoulder that were seen in the first muslin. Also notice the twisting sleeves.
The back. A better fit across the shoulders, but still maybe a bit too wide? Notice, again, the twisting sleeves.

4 thoughts on “Men’s Shirt Sew-Along: Crooked Seams and Twisting Sleeves

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s