This year I’m sewing along with Gertie from Gertie’s New Blog for Better Sewing. A bunch of other talented seamsters and I have joined up through the Craftsy online community to make perfectly fitted bombshell dresses. Here’s a reflection on my efforts to sew well.
After piecing together the bodice and doing the first round of fitting (hello extra length!), Gertie then walks the class through adjusting the bodice bra cups, specifically for a full-bust adjustment. As I’m not the bustiest of ladies, I figured this week’s homework would be light. But, I spent most of the week fiddling with the bra cups all the same. My issue was getting the little piece of the bodice that juts up between the bra cups to lay flat. When made according to the original pattern pieces, it would pull forward just a little. To me (and all of you in last week’s comments), a bustier top should fit snug everywhere. No gapping allowed. Anywhere. My instincts, both last week and this week, suggested it just wasn’t “cuppy” enough. So, I added more fabric to make more of a cup. The result: a baggy mess. The extra fabric just pooled at the center. Adding structure helped a bit, but I couldn’t help but feel like I was making it worse. It’s incredibly hard to fit something like this on yourself! Finally, this past weekend, I put it all back together according to the original pattern to remind myself how bad the gap really was. And, when I added a bit of structure to the top this time around, the gap was nearly gone. Maybe structure was all it really needed in the first place?
After all that, my plan is to cut the bra cup pieces according to the original pattern and cut the bodice adding 2″ in length. Worst case I have a gap at the center of the sweetheart neckline but nice lines and a snug fit everywhere else. Best case the additional structure does what it should, and I have a snug fit everywhere, including at the center of the sweetheart neckline.