This year I’m sewing along with Gertie from Gertie’s New Blog for Better Sewing. A bunch of other talented seamsters and I have joined up through the Craftsy online community to make her Starlet Suit. Here’s a reflection on my efforts to sew well.
The sleeves are in, and they seem to fit fine. Above is a photo taken half way through the process of setting the sleeves on the new muslin, which I like because it shows not only that those pesky drag lines in the sleeve are gone but also how the princess seam lines aren’t trued in the pattern. See that little triangle sticking out of the shoulder seam on the left? Yeah, that’s what I’ve been having trouble with these past few weeks. On the right I just sewed the sleeve in as if it weren’t there.
Here’s a close up of the back sleeve seam shown inside out so you can see how the seam lines veer away from each other.
Disregarding that extra triangle means you lose the positioning of the sleeve notches. The same is also true for the front.
But, I now know the sleeves can be set in by simply disregarding that extra triangle.
All is still not perfect. Though the sleeves are set in without weird puckers near the double notches, a bit of the bagginess under the arm is back. Perhaps my shoulder pads need to be a little thicker? Also, the sleeve darts are now too low, so I need to remove a half an inch from their length (which was lengthened an inch and a half in this muslin). Though, I guess a thicker shoulder pad might make a difference there, too. I also am not sure about the length of the jacket itself. I kind of like the length of it unhemmed. If I can squeeze it out of the fabric, I may add an inch to the bottom to compensate for the hem.
Next up: make the same changes in the lining and check how the lining fits by walking all of the seams. Hopefully I’ll be cutting my fabric and getting back to the videos pretty soon!