This year I’m sewing along with Claire Shaeffer, using her Custom Couture Collection pattern Vogue V8333. Here’s a reflection on my efforts to sew well.
I’ve been wearing this muslin off and on while at home over the past week to try to see what I thought about the fit. My primary conclusion: I like the shape, but I need more ease. My secondary conclusion: on this particular day my shoulders had different understandings of “good posture”! (I’m 95% sure that shoulder difference is not there naturally – though I’m going to keep my eye out for it during my next few photoshoots. I’d been carrying my camera bag on my right shoulder all morning at the Gaultier exhibit, so perhaps it was tired?)
I’m showing it to you here without shoulder pads. With shoulder pads there are drag lines indicating I need a square shoulder adjustment.
(Taken from The Perfect Fit: The Classic Guide to Altering Patterns, which I checked out from the library.)
Even without shoulder pads, the sleeves seemed to indicate I might have broader shoulders than typical for this pattern. (Those pesky drag lines!)
Since it was almost too tight to try on with anything other than a camisole underneath (a problem that I first figured might be remedied with a slippery lining in place) and since the shoulders suggested it was not only too short but also too narrow, I started contemplating making the next size up, which would give me 3-4″ of ease in the bust. My books do not explicitly state what’s the desired range, and I can’t seem to find any discussion of it on the Cutter and Tailor, my newest online sewing forum obsession. (It’s all about tailoring, after all.) The notes I’ve been compiling over the last many weeks actually suggest my original 2-3″ ease is more what I want, though I didn’t write down my source… What to do, what to do?
This hemming and hawing over fit will likely continue as I’ve already spotted my next hiccup as well: the armscye. This pattern’s armscye is low. It looks lovely, but it’s very restrictive. I’ll know more in just a bit. But, I’m already reading about how to raise the armscye.
One of these days I will cut into my fashion fabric. Until then, thanks for sticking with me as I wander blindfolded through the mud. If you’re really lucky, I’ll get so covered in muck that it’ll take someone like Beth and her SunnyGal Studio classes to pull me out. The blow to my budget and ego will be free lessons for you. But, first, a little more wandering can’t hurt.