You’ve now all likely seen my finished skirt, so you might be asking yourself why I’m still clambering on about sewing with lace. Well, like I said back at the beginning of the month, I set myself the goal this month of posting snippets of the techniques I used while working with lace that I knew wouldn’t make it into the finished garment post in much detail. This week I want to write a bit about making seams in lace.
While you can sew seams in lace just like you would with any fabric, lace also gives you the option of making invisible seams. The technique is actually much like the one for making invisible darts. I first found the technique in the copy of the Singer Sewing Book that I inherited from my Grandma.
All-over lace garments and deep lace joined to fabric should be appliqued at joinings and seams. Pin one edge to paper. Lay overlapping edge in place, matching design as well as possible and pin a couple of inches from edge. Carefully trim around edge of motifs to gain desired line. Baste near edge of lace, following cut outline. Use Zigzagger to apply…
Apply all-over lace to fabric in same way by laying scalloped or cut lace edge over material, pinning, basting, and finishing as described above. Remove paper when seam is finished. Trim under edge to 1/4″ of seamline.
By Hand. Using thread suitable for weight of the lace, whip around cut edge… If lace has heavy cord around motifs, imitate this along edge by laying cord and overcasting it.
When I was making my side seams, I didn’t use paper or cord. Also, because my motif is pretty busy, I didn’t worry with any design matching. After pinning both sides of a side seam a few inches from the seam, I just trimmed around the edge of the most pleasing motifs. When I had a nice motif, I pinned it on top of the joining seam. Sometimes I’d use a motif from the front, sometimes from the back. Once I had the whole side seam finished, I then basted it in place. Finally, I whip stitched the cut edges by hand.