Class · Review · Sewing

Wednesdays with Kenneth: Correcting the Draft

The next few months I’m sewing along with Kenneth D. King. A bunch of other talented seamsters and I have joined up to learn how to recreate our favorite jeans using Kenneth D. King’s Jean-ius class on Craftsy. Here’s a reflection on my efforts to sew well.

WWK SideSeamAdjustment

This week’s Jean-ius video lesson is one of my favorites. Kenneth walks the class through the fitting of the muslin, focusing on how to correct for wrinkles around the front crotch, gaping at the back waist, and bagginess under the bum. Because these tips apply not only to our newly made jeans pattern, but also to any pants pattern, I’ve been able to use these secrets to make better fitting Jalie jeans, in fact!

Just as Kenneth does in the videos, I’ve made my friend’s jeans muslin out of cotton muslin. What I hadn’t considered was that cotton muslin has no stretch, but the jeans I’m copying do! Kenneth clearly states that you should make your muslin out of a fabric with similar properties as your final garment – and, while that line obviously made enough of an impression on me that I remembered it, I obviously paid it no heed as I cut into my cotton muslin. I now have a muslin that my friend can barely squeeze into, which means I can’t really tell if there will be any major issues in a stretch fabric. Instead of doing the right thing and remaking the muslin, I’m going to move forward with the pattern as is, trusting that it will fit her the nearly the same way her ready-to-wear jeans do.  I barely have enough time to finish the class before we move to Seattle as is, and I figure if they’re close but not quite right, I can always think of that pair as the muslin and make another pair for her in the future!  That said, I am going to make a small tweak to the side seam, just as Kenneth describes in the class, so that the seam will fall vertically down her leg.

Now that I’ve twice made the mistake of using a non-stretch fabric to make a stretch jeans pattern, I’ve hopefully learned my lesson.  Don’t let me do it a third time!

If you’re interested in taking this class yourself, follow this link for 40% off Jean-ius: Reverse Engineer Your Favorite Fit with Kenneth D. King.

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10 thoughts on “Wednesdays with Kenneth: Correcting the Draft

  1. I’ve made the same mistake! All the pants I own have a little bit of stretch in them, but last year I splurged on some lovely corduroy for some pants and later realized that it had no stretch!

  2. It can be hard to find the perfect muslin fabric when stretch is involved, even if you do remember! I’m really impressed that you’re even trying to finish this class with all of your move preparations and such right now. You must be so busy!

    1. I’ve done the same thing before and I totally agree, it’s hard to match the stretch muslin fabric and fashion fabric. I’m going to start the jeanius class with my mom when she visits me next week, can wait to see how your final pair turns out. You’re friend is very lucky 🙂

  3. Would this class be useful for non-jeans-wearers? I have a few pairs of jeans, but no “favorite” pair. I’m more interested in making regular mens-wear inspired pants. I have a great pair of Banana Republic pants that are almost perfect.

    1. Oh, yes. You could copy any pair of pants, jeans or otherwise, after taking this class. I think you could copy most any garment, in fact!

  4. I did the same thing when I did the Jeanius class! I made the muslin out of non stretch, then added width to them because they were too tight, then when I made the actual jeans out of stretch denim they were too big. Sigh. Frustrating. I do want to attempt making another pair, taking out the 1/4″ that I initially put in.
    His instructions on constructing the jeans are AMAZING and that alone makes the class worth it.

  5. Oh yes and I’ve made the opposite mistake too which is very silly. Still, learning (if in fact we do learn) is the point. Sigh.

    One day I will try sewing jeans but until then I shall live vicariously through this wonderful internet thingy :).

  6. I recently made Collette’s Clover pants into “skinny jeans” – I absolutely love how they’ve turned out but I was a fuss of pins and unpicking to get there!
    The class sounds fantastic – I’ll have to give this a go some day.

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