The next few months I’m sewing along with Kenneth D. King. A bunch of other talented seamsters and I have joined up to learn how to recreate our favorite jeans using Kenneth D. King’s Jean-ius class on Craftsy. Here’s a reflection on my efforts to sew well.
This week’s Jean-ius video lesson is one of my favorites. Kenneth walks the class through the fitting of the muslin, focusing on how to correct for wrinkles around the front crotch, gaping at the back waist, and bagginess under the bum. Because these tips apply not only to our newly made jeans pattern, but also to any pants pattern, I’ve been able to use these secrets to make better fitting Jalie jeans, in fact!
Just as Kenneth does in the videos, I’ve made my friend’s jeans muslin out of cotton muslin. What I hadn’t considered was that cotton muslin has no stretch, but the jeans I’m copying do! Kenneth clearly states that you should make your muslin out of a fabric with similar properties as your final garment – and, while that line obviously made enough of an impression on me that I remembered it, I obviously paid it no heed as I cut into my cotton muslin. I now have a muslin that my friend can barely squeeze into, which means I can’t really tell if there will be any major issues in a stretch fabric. Instead of doing the right thing and remaking the muslin, I’m going to move forward with the pattern as is, trusting that it will fit her the nearly the same way her ready-to-wear jeans do. I barely have enough time to finish the class before we move to Seattle as is, and I figure if they’re close but not quite right, I can always think of that pair as the muslin and make another pair for her in the future! That said, I am going to make a small tweak to the side seam, just as Kenneth describes in the class, so that the seam will fall vertically down her leg.
Now that I’ve twice made the mistake of using a non-stretch fabric to make a stretch jeans pattern, I’ve hopefully learned my lesson. Don’t let me do it a third time!
If you’re interested in taking this class yourself, follow this link for 40% off Jean-ius: Reverse Engineer Your Favorite Fit with Kenneth D. King.