Class · Review · Sewing

Wednesdays with Kenneth: Final Assembly

The next few months I’m sewing along with Kenneth D. King. A bunch of other talented seamsters and I have joined up to learn how to recreate our favorite jeans using Kenneth D. King’s Jean-ius class on Craftsy. Here’s a reflection on my efforts to sew well.


Can you believe we only have a few raw edges left on these jeans and one last piece to add (the waistband, in next week’s class)?!  (Likely you can, since I’ve been making these jeans for months now!)

This week’s class was great for walking through good assembly techniques.  Again and again I’m learning that there’s a proper order when sewing the inseams and crotch seam in pants.  The key is to sew the crotch seam after the inseams and side seams have been sewn.  Through the last two classes, Kenneth has been giving us some good tips so that it’s easy to get that tricky crotch seam sewn just right.

But, again, his top stitching directions deviate from those of traditional jeans.  And, again, I realized too late.  Kenneth has you sew the side seams first and then top stitch them in place.  Since you can’t add top stitching to the leg seams you sew second, his inseams are left plain.  He explains that he likes adding the top stitching to the outside since it adds decoration to the side that’s seen the most.  But, traditional jeans have the top stitching along the inseams and only a short stretch of top stitching on the side seams just behind the front pockets.  In the future if I’m copying another pair of ready-to-wear jeans, I’ll make sure to sew the inseam first.  But, I have to admit I actually don’t mind the top stitching along the side seam!  I hope my friend won’t either!

Next week will be the big reveal as I finish up these jeans and hand them over to my friend – she’s even agreed to a photo shoot!  I can’t wait!

If you’re interested in taking this class yourself, follow this link for 40% off Jean-ius: Reverse Engineer Your Favorite Fit with Kenneth D. King.

4 thoughts on “Wednesdays with Kenneth: Final Assembly

  1. You can indeed use an alternate method of construction to get topstitching on the inseams. This is the order:

    Sew the crotch seam on the back, and the crotch seam on the front–then do the seam finish.

    Next, sew the inseams, both in one pass, from hem, to crotch seam, to other hem. You can topstitch or make a flat-fell seam.

    Finally, sew the outseams. You can topstitch from the waist to about 10″ or so below the hip.

    This is the alternate order of construction–I like my method better, as a flat-fell seam on the inseam rubs my thighs (I know, too much information), and having the topstitch all down the out seam is a look I prefer.

    But there is always more than one way to do something. As in all sewing!

  2. That surprised me too, when I was working through this class. The other thing I discovered was that the flat-felled seams that usually make up the inseam and crotch weren’t factored in. So I had to serge and topstitch to get the look, but when I make my next pair of jeans, I’m going to need to remember to add some extra seam allowance so I can have a little more room to play with that!

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